When it comes to problem-solving, Colin Duffy can be found either in a classroom or hanging from a climbing wall. The American athlete represents a new generation of climbers who balance the demands of elite sport with academic studies. A student of Applied Mathematics at the University of Colorado and a two-time Olympian in sport climbing, Duffy is set to compete at the International Federation of Sport Climbing -IFSC- World Championships in Seoul this month.

“I think applied math and sport climbing are similar in the problem-solving aspect,” he told ‘Olympics.com’. “The whole time you have to find a way to the solution, but there are many different paths you can take.”

Balancing studies and the international calendar

Duffy highlights that maintaining a balance between university and international competition has been key to his progress in recent years. “Over time I’ve realised that keeping this balance between the two keeps climbing fresh for me and keeps school fresh for me,” he said. “It allows me to stay motivated throughout the season.”

The young American climber arrives in Seoul after consolidating his place on the World Cup circuit with three gold medals —two in lead and one in boulder— confirming his status among the world’s elite.

An analytical view of sport climbing

For Duffy, climbing is as much an exercise in analysis as it is in strength and technique. “Sport climbing is like a puzzle because you have a given start and finish point, but you have no information on how to get there,” he explained. “As an athlete, my goal is to figure out the solution that works best for me to reach the top.”

In lead climbing, where walls rise above 15 metres, decision-making under pressure becomes decisive. “I think the most difficult mental aspect to master is making quick and good decisions under pressure,” he added. “Being able to slow your mind down in those moments takes a lot of time, but it’s something I consider one of my strengths in competition.”

Decision-making under pressure

In lead events, climbers face routes that can extend up to 15 metres. For Duffy, the ability to manage pressure at that height is crucial. “I think the hardest mental aspect to master is making quick and good decisions under pressure, because sometimes when we’re high on the wall your brain is running at 100 miles per hour,” he said.

“Being able to slow that down… it takes a long time to learn how to make those tough decisions, and I think that’s something I’m pretty good at in competitions, and hopefully I can get closer to mastering that skill within myself,” he added.

A renewed Olympic format

At Los Angeles 2028, sport climbing will feature three separate disciplines: speed, boulder and lead. The decision by the International Olympic Committee -IOC- and the IFSC will allow athletes to specialise, after two editions in which lead and boulder were combined into a single event.

“I think it’s really interesting that in Los Angeles speed, boulder, and lead will all be separate,” Duffy said. “Athletes can choose the one that fits them best and push their limits in that specific discipline. For me, I want to try and compete in both boulder and lead, because I enjoy doing both.”